Amperi Service knowledge base

This advice is based on solutions to specific, anonymised cases handled by Amperi Service. Every case can be different – the steps described do not replace a professional service diagnosis.

• Amperi scooter: first check at around 1,000 km and warranty service at 3,000 km – We recommend a check (the first inspection service) after about 1,000 km. The service required to keep your warranty valid is carried out after 3,000 km. The check at around 1,000 km helps catch probl
• Electric scooter: worn handlebar lock, damaged folding pin and play in the handlebar – If the scooter's handlebar does not lock after unfolding, has noticeable play, or the folding pin or cotter pin has broken, do not ride until the mechanism has been repaired. Worn or broken lock parts
• Odometer resetting and incorrect speed readings on the dashboard of an electric vehicle – An odometer that keeps resetting is most often caused by a problem with the power supply to the dashboard (for example a faulty converter or a chafed power cable) or by a faulty dashboard unit. An inf
• Hall sensors and throttle grip on an electric scooter: no response to throttle, jerking – When an electric scooter does not respond to the throttle, jerks when pulling away or cuts out while riding, a common cause is faulty Hall sensors in the motor or a faulty throttle grip. A low battery
• Scooter shock absorbers and suspension: leaks, knocking and vibration when braking – Oil leaking from a shock absorber, knocking over bumps and front-end vibration when braking usually point to a worn or damaged shock absorber, wheel bearing, tyre, brake disc, or a suspension part dam
• Brake and side stand sensors that block an electric scooter from riding – On an electric scooter, sensors in the brake levers and at the side stand cut the drive when the system thinks a brake is applied or the stand is down. A worn lever, a faulty brake light sensor or a d
• No lights on an electric vehicle: blown bulbs, brake light and number plate light – A lighting failure is most often caused by a blown bulb or by a problem in the 12 V circuit: a damp or corroded connector, a loose wire, a fuse or the voltage converter. If only one function fails (fo
• Blown fuse, DC/DC converter failure and no 12 V power in an electric scooter – A loss of 12 V power (dead display, lights, indicators, horn) while the main battery voltage is fine is most often caused by a blown or overheating fuse, or by a faulty DC/DC converter. The converter
• Display not working or showing errors (E07, E-006, E10) – what to check on an electric scooter or kick scooter – A black screen at start-up or error codes such as E07, E-006 or E10 usually point to a problem with the power supply, the display, the controller, the wiring, the throttle or the motor. The meaning of
• Wheel bearings, wheel runout and vibration in the front or rear wheel: causes and self-checks – Wheel runout, knocking, humming or vibration does not always mean worn wheel bearings. In service practice the cause is often a bent or damaged rim, a brake pad rubbing on the disc, a loose or poorly
• Damaged charging socket and plug on an electric vehicle: melted, loose, short circuit – A charging socket or plug can wear out, loosen, overheat and melt, and in the worst case cause a short circuit. If you notice these symptoms, stop charging immediately and do not use the charger until
• Scooter suddenly stops moving or cuts out while riding: causes and what to do – An electric scooter that suddenly loses power or switches off while riding most often has a problem with the battery and its protection system (BMS), the power supply (fuse, contacts, connectors), the
• Low battery capacity and short range: causes and what to do – If the battery drains quickly and the range has dropped to only a few kilometres, the cause may be cold weather, riding conditions, the charger, or wear or damage to a cell section. First carry out sa
• Battery switches off while riding or at around 71-72 V (cell imbalance) – If a 72 V scooter battery suddenly switches off while riding, or cuts the power when the voltage drops to around 71-75 V, one of the most common causes is cell imbalance, meaning large voltage differe
• Faulty or worn indicator switch and indicators not working – When the indicators do not work or work intermittently, the cause may be a worn or faulty indicator switch. It may also be a blown bulb, a poor contact in the bulb socket, a faulty flasher unit, a blo
• Scooter brakes: worn pads, seized caliper, bleeding and brake master cylinder – The most common brake problems are worn pads, a caliper seized on its guide pins (after standing in damp conditions or contact with road salt) and a faulty brake master cylinder. A seized caliper drag
• Electric scooter tyres: punctures, fast rear tyre wear and replacement – The most common tyre problems are punctures, tread damage and fast wear of the rear tyre. A tyre with structural damage (torn tread, cut, crack, bulge) or heavy wear must be replaced and you should st
• Battery will not charge at all and the charger does not respond: sleeping BMS or voltage close to zero – If nothing happens when you connect the charger, the cause may be the socket, the plug or the charger. It may also be the BMS protection after deep discharge, or damaged cells. First, safely check the