Knowledge base
Service advice
Solutions based on real, anonymised cases from our service. Every case can be different – if the problem persists, open a service request.
Amperi scooter: first check at around 1,000 km and warranty service at 3,000 km
We recommend a check (the first inspection service) after about 1,000 km. The service required to keep your warranty valid is carried out after 3,000 km. The check at around 1,000 km helps catch problems such as play and loose fixings early. It usually covers, among other things, the brakes, tyres, play and fixings, lighting, electrical connections, and software and diagnostics. Skipping the check increases the risk of faults, as in the described case of a loose front lamp.
Electric scooter: worn handlebar lock, damaged folding pin and play in the handlebar
If the scooter's handlebar does not lock after unfolding, has noticeable play, or the folding pin or cotter pin has broken, do not ride until the mechanism has been repaired. Worn or broken lock parts and the folding pin are replaced with new ones. Play that is not caused by damaged parts is usually removed by tightening bolts or adjusting the mechanism. Adjustment only works if the components are mechanically sound. Below we describe how to check the problem safely without opening the battery or electronics.
Odometer resetting and incorrect speed readings on the dashboard of an electric vehicle
An odometer that keeps resetting is most often caused by a problem with the power supply to the dashboard (for example a faulty converter or a chafed power cable) or by a faulty dashboard unit. An inflated or incorrect speed reading usually appears after a tyre change, after a collision (damaged sensor, lost calibration) or when the wheel size is set incorrectly in the dashboard. The first step is to establish exactly when the fault occurs and to compare the readings with GPS.
Hall sensors and throttle grip on an electric scooter: no response to throttle, jerking
When an electric scooter does not respond to the throttle, jerks when pulling away or cuts out while riding, a common cause is faulty Hall sensors in the motor or a faulty throttle grip. A low battery, a stuck brake cut-off sensor, loose or corroded connectors or a controller fault can cause similar symptoms. You can make some simple preliminary checks yourself, but replacing the sensors or the grip requires diagnostics at a service centre.
Scooter shock absorbers and suspension: leaks, knocking and vibration when braking
Oil leaking from a shock absorber, knocking over bumps and front-end vibration when braking usually point to a worn or damaged shock absorber, wheel bearing, tyre, brake disc, or a suspension part damaged in a fall. Symptoms can get worse over time, so if the vibration is strong it is best to stop riding. Below are safe checks that help narrow down the cause without taking anything apart.
Brake and side stand sensors that block an electric scooter from riding
On an electric scooter, sensors in the brake levers and at the side stand cut the drive when the system thinks a brake is applied or the stand is down. A worn lever, a faulty brake light sensor or a dirty side stand sensor can cause a missing brake light, cutting out while riding, or no movement at all. Below are the symptoms, the most common causes and safe checks that do not involve opening any electronics.
No lights on an electric vehicle: blown bulbs, brake light and number plate light
A lighting failure is most often caused by a blown bulb or by a problem in the 12 V circuit: a damp or corroded connector, a loose wire, a fuse or the voltage converter. If only one function fails (for example the brake light or the number plate light), start with the bulb and the visible connectors. If everything fails at once, the cause is usually in the power supply to the whole lighting system.
Blown fuse, DC/DC converter failure and no 12 V power in an electric scooter
A loss of 12 V power (dead display, lights, indicators, horn) while the main battery voltage is fine is most often caused by a blown or overheating fuse, or by a faulty DC/DC converter. The converter supplies the 12 V circuit from the traction voltage, so its failure or a damaged connector at the harness switches off the 12 V components even with a charged battery. Below you will find the symptoms, possible causes and safe steps you can carry out yourself.
Display not working or showing errors (E07, E-006, E10) – what to check on an electric scooter or kick scooter
A black screen at start-up or error codes such as E07, E-006 or E10 usually point to a problem with the power supply, the display, the controller, the wiring, the throttle or the motor. The meaning of a code depends on the model and manufacturer. The owner can safely check the basics: restart the vehicle, check the charge level, look for visible external damage and document the symptoms carefully. Replacing the display or controller, and inspecting the wiring inside the vehicle, is a job for a service centre.
Wheel bearings, wheel runout and vibration in the front or rear wheel: causes and self-checks
Wheel runout, knocking, humming or vibration does not always mean worn wheel bearings. In service practice the cause is often a bent or damaged rim, a brake pad rubbing on the disc, a loose or poorly seated spacer and bearings in the wheel, or play in the steering head bearing. The steps below let you assess the symptoms safely without opening the battery or any high-voltage electronics.
Damaged charging socket and plug on an electric vehicle: melted, loose, short circuit
A charging socket or plug can wear out, loosen, overheat and melt, and in the worst case cause a short circuit. If you notice these symptoms, stop charging immediately and do not use the charger until the part has been checked. Replacing the socket or plug is usually a simple repair for a service centre, but it requires an assessment of whether the cables and connectors have also been damaged.
Scooter suddenly stops moving or cuts out while riding: causes and what to do
An electric scooter that suddenly loses power or switches off while riding most often has a problem with the battery and its protection system (BMS), the power supply (fuse, contacts, connectors), the brake system, or is reacting to moisture. First stop safely, switch the vehicle off, wait a moment and check the basics from the list below. If you notice a swollen battery, smoke, a burning smell or unusual heat, stop using the scooter and do not charge it. If the fault returns or the scooter will not start, it needs diagnostics at a service centre.
Low battery capacity and short range: causes and what to do
If the battery drains quickly and the range has dropped to only a few kilometres, the cause may be cold weather, riding conditions, the charger, or wear or damage to a cell section. First carry out safe checks: charge fully (at room temperature), take a test ride and watch the charge indicator. If the range is still low, the battery needs to be diagnosed by a service centre. Do not open it yourself, and contact the service centre before shipping, because lithium-ion batteries are subject to dangerous-goods transport rules.
Battery switches off while riding or at around 71-72 V (cell imbalance)
If a 72 V scooter battery suddenly switches off while riding, or cuts the power when the voltage drops to around 71-75 V, one of the most common causes is cell imbalance, meaning large voltage differences between individual cells. The battery protection (BMS) then cuts the power when the weakest cell reaches its lower limit, even though the vehicle's readout suggests there is still energy left. Similar symptoms can also come from voltage sag under load, overcurrent or temperature protection, and poor contacts. The fault can also occur in a relatively new battery. Never open the battery. Check whether the problem repeats on another compatible scooter and hand the battery in for servicing.
Faulty or worn indicator switch and indicators not working
When the indicators do not work or work intermittently, the cause may be a worn or faulty indicator switch. It may also be a blown bulb, a poor contact in the bulb socket, a faulty flasher unit, a blown fuse, a missing 12 V supply or a loose connector. First check the safe items, namely the bulbs and their contacts. If these are in good order and the fault persists, have the vehicle diagnosed at a service centre. Replacing the switch may turn out to be necessary.
Scooter brakes: worn pads, seized caliper, bleeding and brake master cylinder
The most common brake problems are worn pads, a caliper seized on its guide pins (after standing in damp conditions or contact with road salt) and a faulty brake master cylinder. A seized caliper drags on the disc, overheats and can ruin the disc, so at the first signs you should stop riding and check the brakes. Replacing pads and fluid, bleeding, and replacing the caliper or master cylinder are workshop jobs. The owner can safely do a visual inspection and a wheel spin test. This article describes hydraulic brakes (with fluid and a master cylinder).
Electric scooter tyres: punctures, fast rear tyre wear and replacement
The most common tyre problems are punctures, tread damage and fast wear of the rear tyre. A tyre with structural damage (torn tread, cut, crack, bulge) or heavy wear must be replaced and you should stop riding. For a tubed tyre, repairing or replacing the inner tube is sometimes enough, and a service centre can assess this. If the rear tyre wears quickly, check the pressure, the load and the wheel alignment, and check whether the brake is rubbing.
Battery will not charge at all and the charger does not respond: sleeping BMS or voltage close to zero
If nothing happens when you connect the charger, the cause may be the socket, the plug or the charger. It may also be the BMS protection after deep discharge, or damaged cells. First, safely check the power supply, connections and charger indicator without opening the battery. If that does not help, the battery voltage must be measured and diagnosed at a service centre.